Running a restaurant looks romantic and simple, which is why many people from all sorts of different backgrounds try it. Sadly, most people underestimate how hard it is.

It’s a fickle business! Restaurants come and go. Tastes change. Staff become complacent. Owners have to be a cook (or think like one), an accountant, a human resources expert, a purchasing manager, a cleaner, a food safety expert, a marketer, a psychologist – a jack of all trades. The hours are long and the profits small!

However, many have found the right ingredients and continue to succeed. Chill on Tedder is one of those places that has been around a while but never ceases to impress. Chef and owner Daran Glasgow is a passionate professional who has been delighting Gold Coast diners for more than six years and has won many awards for his innovative modern Australian dishes.

We started with one of Glasgow’s signature dishes: seared scallops with angel hair pasta, served with smoked yarra tomato beurre blanc and a smoked tomato salsa ($22) – delicate flavours perfectly balanced. The pan-fried pâté de foie gras served with toasted brioche and a pear and rhubarb chutney ($34) is rich and luxurious.

For mains we tried the pepper and juniper berry rubbed loin of venison with parmesan gnocchi, caramelised pearl onions, oven-roasted baby vegetables thyme and shiraz pan juices ($39). The twice-cooked duck leg confit ($37) is another of Glasgow’s signature dishes served with accompaniments to suit the season. For autumn it’s sweet potato parmentier, celeriac purée and a minted broad bean jus. For steak lovers there is a 250g 90-day-old grass-fed sirloin with truffled potato gratin, buttered baby beans, café de paris butter and rich shiraz jus ($37).

The desserts ($15) are hard to ignore, especially a soufflé selection that changes daily according to best available ingredients and there’s an upside-down caramelised peach and almond pudding with peach syrup and rosewater ice cream.

Glasgow’s food is innovative, exciting and well-balanced. The two-course lunch special is great value and on Monday and Tuesday nights there’s also a two- ($49) and three-course ($60) dinner special. There’s a comprehensive range of local and imported wines to suit all tastes and budgets, and a good selection of wines by the glass.

The decor is crisp, bright and modern and the service is friendly, warm and professional. Chill is one of the few really good restaurants on the Gold Coast – a great place to relax and enjoy modern award-winning cuisine.