Travel inland and find Drift settled amongst the trees.

Why does seafood always taste best by the sea? The smell of the ocean, the sound of the waves, the taste of the salt – we use all of our senses when we eat and the location plays an important role in our enjoyment.

That’s why wines often taste better at the winery than when we get them home, and why food on holiday tastes better in its original location. The French have a word for this effect – “terroir” – which is used to denote the special characteristics that geography and climate have on food and wine. Terroir can be translated as “a sense of place”.

Drift Brookwater has a sense of place. Famous for the images of its former premises on the Brisbane River bank at Milton floating out of control in the January flood, Drift has had a “tree change”, moving to the rolling hills of Brookwater. David Moore and his Drift team, including executive chef Romain Bapst, have reopened at the Brookwater Golf Club. The setting is a club with a Moet & Chandon lounge bar and sweeping views of the 18th hole and native bushland.

The food is some of Australia’s best. We started with sea salt and cracked pepper calamari ($19) – tender and juicy with a soft bite and a tangy lime aioli – and house-cured ocean trout rolled in a crisp spring roll pastry and citrus salad ($19) is fresh and full of flavour and texture, teasing
the senses.

For mains the Drift beer battered sand whiting ($32) remains true to Drift’s waterside heritage, whilst a special of Karuvatta Black Pig cutlet with sage jus and duck fat chips ($32) is spectacular – the pork moist and tender, the chips crisp and full of flavour, cooked the way chips should be – a dish full of sensuality and a true sense of place.

It was hard to choose from the range of decadent desserts. We shared an apple tartin ($14) served with an excellent vanilla bean ice-cream. For cheese lovers there is a great selection of local and imported cheeses. The wine list includes a good range of wines by the glass – although it was hard to go past the Moet & Chandon champagne ($16 a glass).

Drift on the river won many awards. Drift amongst the trees will also not disappoint. It’s certainly giving Springfield a unique experience that is worth travelling inland for.